Vicipaedia

Caril

categoria ferculorum
Vide etiam paginam fere homonymam: Pulvis caril.

Caril[1] seu karri[2] est categoria iurum in gastronomia Indiae meridianae et Srilancae iam diu recognita, quibus typica sunt folia aromatica Murrayae koenigii, lac cocois, curcuma. Categoria "caril" recentius alibi in Asia australi et orientali recepta est, variis autem definitionibus. Eodem nomine etiam appellantur fercula, iura, embammata in aliis regionibus parata quibus sapores coloresque artis coquinariae Indicae typici imitantur, ope curcumae, capsici, gingiberis, cumini, coriandri.

Gastronomia Malabarensis: Caril de nuce indica e squillis mangisque cum oryza foliisque Murrayae koenigii inlatum
Ars coquinaria Indonesia: Kari kambing ("caril caprinum") cum pane roti kanai in folio musae posito, Palembang in urbe inlatum

Nomen textibus Latinus repertum a Lusitano caril demitur, quod e Malabarico karil mutuatum est. Vocabula tam Anglicum curry quam Francogallicum kari potius e Tamulico kari proveniunt.

Caril Indiae meridianae et Srilancae

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Ars coquinaria Iaponica: Katsukarē ("costae porcinae e caril") cum oryza et iure e miso inlatae

Scriptorum, qui fercula huius generis nomine proprio appellaverint, primus omnium fuit Garcias ab Horto medicus Portugallensis in Goa refugus in dialogo de speciebus condimentisque hac in urbe anno 1563 divulgato.

Deste coquo pisado e tirado ho leite fazem (que assi parece) e cozem arroz com elle, e he como arroz de leite de cabras, fazem comeres das aves e carnes, a que chamam caril.[3]

Quae verba mox Latine a Carolo Clusio sic versa sunt; "... aut ex eo trito lac exprimitur cum quo coquitur oriza non minus suavis quam si cum lacte caprino decocta esset: aut ex eo et avium quadrupedumve carnibus edulia parantur caril illis nuncupata".[4] Hic autem, antithesi ita creata, sententiam Garciae male interpretavit, qui edulia nomine "caril" non e nucis medulla, potius e lacte (leite) medullae tritae parata esse dicere voluit.

Hunc coquendi modum etiam Ioannes Huygen van Linschoten Batavus in insula Srilanca post triginta annos observavit, aliis autem impensis. Ille enim pisces loco avium quadrupedumque, fructus immaturos loco lactis nucum indicarum praescripsit:

Die meeste visch wort ghegeten met rijs, welck zy koken met sop dat zy over 't rijs gieten, ende is wat suerachtigh ghelijck oftet met kruys-besien ofte onrype druyven gekoockt waer; is seer smakelijck, wort ghenaempt carrijl, 't welcke is hare dagelijcksche kost ende onder-hout, ende het rijs dient haer inde plaets van broodt.

(Maior pars piscium cum oryza comedunt, ex iusculo coctorum quod super oryzam infundent admodum amaro, sicut e grossulariis sive uvis immaturis factum esset, saporosissimum, carryl nuncupatum. Hic cottidianus eis est cibus in quo oryza locum panis tenet.)[5]

Eodem modo, quo verba Garciae, asseverationes Petri della Valle interpretari debent, qui medio saeculo XVII his verbis Italianis suam descriptionem caril incepit: Caril chiamano in India certi brodetti fatti con butirro, con midollo di noci indiane, in luogo de' quali nei nostri paesi si può usar latte di mandorle: nam lac amygdalinum non pro carne nucis indicae, sed pro lacte huius carnis, stare potest. Sic fere naturam horum ferculorum evolvit, primo loco de cibo castimoniali Hinduico vel Buddhistico, altero de cibo Christianorum Sancti Thomae:

"Rex mihi cenare instanter urgebat, se plures caril aliosque cibos saporosiores varios paraturum praetendens si de adventu meo certior factus esset. Caril in India iuscula quaedam appellant e butyro, medulla nucum indicarum (cuius loco regionibus nostris lac amygdalinum adhiberi potest), speciebus omnis generis inter quas cardamomo et gingibere (a nobis insipientibus rarius in cibos receptis), herbis, fructibus, aliorum condimentorum mille, Christiani insuper, nullo cibo abhorrentes, carnes seu pisces omnis generis immittunt, praesertim gallinarum frustula. Quae iuscula in oryzam, ex aqua saleque simplici modo coctam, magna copia infundunt. Ita mixtura gustosissima, valde nutritiva, minime dyspeptica, cito cocta, pruducitur quae panem pulmentumque gratissimum, per me optimum, eodem tempore constituit".[6]
 
Ars coquinaria Iaponica: "Caril Asakusa" i.e. isicium Hamburgense cum iure caril oryzaque safrano tincta, in popina regionis urbanae Asakusa Tokii inlatum

Quos scriptores antiquissimos secutus Georgius Eberhardus Rumphius, rerum naturalium insularum Indonesiarum eruditus Batavus, caril rem Indicam esse accepit atque, primus fortasse, curcumam inter impensa principalia Latine mandavit: "Curcuma in India tam ad cibum quam ad medecinam adhibetur. Indi enim ... adeo ipsi adsueti sunt ut cum cunctis admiscent condimentis et piscibus, praesertim autem isti quod karri ipsis vocatur."[2] Ioannes Henricus Grose Anglus, Rumphii fere coaevus, plura eodem sensu scripsit, moribus "Maurorum" (scilicet Mahometanorum imperium Mogolicum dirigentium) et "Brahmanorum" Hinduicorum distinctis, arte coquinaria Indica in tres categorias dispositis, caril, kitsery, pilau, "sed illorum infinita est varietas. Sunt genus brodiorum cum oryza edendorum, factis de omni animale seu vegetabile (hae praesertim Brahmani sumunt, qui cibum ex animantibus reiiciunt) sed impensis praecipuis medulla nucis indicae ad spissandum, circuma ad flavescendum, condimenta ad iusculum relevandum[7]

Europaei nihilominus plures, qui melius Srilancamque cognoscebant, iam saeculo anteriore accipere coeperant hanc insulam veram originem ferculorum caril fuisse. Ita Robertus Knox ante alios brevissime de insulanis scripserat:

 
Gastronomia Californiensis: Chicken tikka masala, quod inter carila enumerari solet, iuxta oryzam, cum pane nān potionemque lassī iure mangarum temperatam, Irvine in urbe Californiae in popina Masala Bowl inlatum
They have all fruits that grow in India. Most sorts of these delicious fruits they gather before they be ripe, and boyl them to make carrees, to use the Portuguez word, that is somewhat to eat with and relish their rice

("Fructus omnes habent qui in India crescunt, quorum autem species plures ante maturitatem carpunt elixantque ut carree (sic Lusitane nuncupatum), pulmentum scilicet cum oryza edendum, sibi conficiant").[8] Favorabilius medio saeculo XIX Iacobus Emerson Tennant "alimenta cerealia attractiviora", ait, "redduntur arte praecellenti Singhalensium in innumerabilium caril generum parandorum, quae delicato suco e medulla nucis indicae contrita expresso temperantur. Indicorum talis generis ferculorum neque unum ad sapidissimam caril Singhalensis deliciositatem, e condimentis virentibus summa arte manu indigena concoctam, assimilari potest".[9]

A pipere nigro ad capsicum

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Indiae pars iam magna sub imperio Britannico reducta, Georgius Colman auctor scaenicus Londiniensis ad adventum habitudinum orientalium in Angliam anno 1787 allusit:

Methinks I hear some Alderman, all hurry,
Cry, where's the pellow? Bring me out the curry!
Be quiet, says his lady; silence, man!
Where's the Old China? Show me the Japan!

("Nonne decemvirum, 'ubi nobis pilau?' urgenter clamare et 'infer mihi caril!' audeo? Cui domina 'Tace!' dicet, 'sile, vir! ubi fictilia Sinensia? opus Iaponicum ostende!'")[10] His verbis ad res veras allusit: versiones enim Anglicae ferculorum orientalium pilau et caril iam ante quadraginta annos descriptae erant in libro culinario Annae Glasse, apud quam condimenta caril typica piper nigrum coriandrumque esse videntur.[11]

Saeculo XVIII exeunte illi qui de paratione caril in Anglia praecipiebant pulvis caril mandare coeperunt, qua tritura comprehendu solent coriandrum, curcuma, cuminum, foenum graecum, capsicum. Hoc ergo aevo, in Anglia primum, locum quem antea piper nigrum tenuerat capsicum capiebat. Ergo in opere Mariae Rundell, in Britannia Civitatibusque Foederatis anno 1806 divulgato, ad caril pullinum (chicken curry) pulvis caril pulvisque cayennae recepti sunt, pipere nigro omisso.[12]

Eadem mutatio in India aut eodem tempore, aut paulo postea, accidebat. Robertus Riddell medio saeculo XIX methodum caril sicut a Britannis in India intellectam est compendiose descripsit, carne vel pisce vel holeribus ad teneritatem praecoctis, speciebus capsicisque et sale additis, lacte nucis indicae (the juice of the cocoa-nut) non omisso, condimentis tam carnium quam iusculorum bene temperatis, quibus calor gingibere et capsico (minime pipere) datus erit.[13]

Notae

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  1. ↑ "Ex eo (i.e. lacte nucis Indicae) et avium quadrupedumque carnibus edulia parantur caril illis nuncupata": Clusius (1567)
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 "Karri": Rumphius (1747)
  3. ↑ Orta (1563)
  4. ↑ Clusius (1567)
  5. ↑ Linschoten (1596)
  6. ↑ Il re mi pregò con molta instanza che mangiassi, scusandosi spesso ... che se avesse saputo innanzi avria preparato molti caril, e deverse altre vivande di più gusto. Caril chiamano in India certi brodetti fatti con butirro, con midollo di noci indiane, in luogo de' quali nei nostri paesi si può usar latte di mandorle ... con spezierie d' ogni sorta, e tra le altre cardamomo e gingivero, che noi altre nelle vivande poco usiamo, e facciamo errore, con erbe, frutti e mille altri condimenti; ed i cristiani che mangiano ogni cosa, vi mettono anche carne o pesce d'ogni sorta ... particolarmente galline ... in pezzi piccoli ... e questo brodetto ... si versa in buona copia sopra 'l riso cotto con semplice acqua e sale, di che si fa una mescolanza gustosissima e di molta sostanza, e di pochissimo impaccio, che in una sol volta in breve tempo si cuoce ... e 'l medesimo serve ad un punto e di pane e di companatico gratissimo, che io per me lo trovo molto buono. Della Valle (1663)
  7. ↑ They have also almost as many names for their dishes as the European cookery; but the three most common ones all over India is, currees, kitcharee, and pilow. The currees are infinitely various, being a sort of fricacees, to eat with rice, made of any animals or vegetables; these last being chiefly used by the Bramins, who never eat what has had life in it, but the reigning ingredients are the pulp of the coconut for thickening, and turmeric for turning the sauce yellow, besides spices to heighten it: Grose (1757)
  8. ↑ Robert Knox, An Historical Relation of the Island Ceylon in the East-Indies (Londinii: Chiswell, 1681) (p. 12 apud Google Books)
  9. ↑ Farinaceous food ... is rendered attractive by the unrivalled excellence of the Singhalese in the preparation of innumerable curries, each tempered by the delicate creamy juice expressed from the flesh of the coco-nut after it has been reduced to a pulp. Nothing of the same class in India can bear the comparison with the piquant delicacy of a curry in Ceylon, composed of fresh condiments and compounded by the skilful hand of a native.Tennant (1860)
  10. ↑ George Colman, "Prologue to the comedy of the East-Indian" in Prose upon Several Occasions vol. 3 (1787) p. 235; "pilau" in The Oxford English Dictionary (Oxonii: Clarendon Press, 1989. 20 voll.)
  11. ↑ Glasse (1747)
  12. ↑ Rundell (1807) p. 81
  13. ↑ Curries consist in the meat, fish, or vegetables being first dressed until tender, to which are added ground spices, chillies, and salt, both to the meat and gravy in certain proportions ... [their] principal quality depending upon the spices being duly proportioned as to flavour, and the degree of warmth to be given by the chillies and ginger: Riddell (1852) pp. 353-354

Bibliographia

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Praeceptum Anglicum (Glasse (1758))
Fontes antiquiores
Eruditio
  • Shrabani Basu, Curry: The Story of the Nation's Favourite Dish. Stroud: Sutton Publishing, 2003
  • Jennifer Brennan, Curries and Bugles: a memoir and cookbook of the British Raj. Novi Eboraci: Harper, 1990; Ruth Reichl, recensio huius operis
  • David Burnett, Helen Saberi, The Road to Vindaloo: curry cooks and curry books. Totnes: Prospect Books, 2008. ISBN 978-1-903018-57-6
  • David Burton, The Raj at Table. Londinii: Faber and Faber, 1993
  • Lizzie Collingham, Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors. Oxoniae: Oxford University Press, 2006. ISBN 978-0195320015 (editio anterior titulo Curry: A Biography. Londinii: Chatto & Windus, 2005)
  • "The Colonial Appropriation of Curry" in Cecilia Leong-Salobir, Food Culture in Colonial Asia: a taste of empire (Londinii: Routledge, 2011. ISBN 978-0-415-60632-5) pp. 39-59
  • Cecilia Leong-Salobir, "Mem y Cookie: la cocina colonial en Malasia y Singapur" in Estudios de Asia y Africa vol. 50 (2015) pp. 621-650 JSTOR
  • Keiko Ohnuma, "Curry Rice: Gaijin Gold: how the British version of an Indian dish turned Japanese" in Petits propos culinaires no. 52; reimpressum in Alan Davidson, Helen Saberi, edd., The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy (Berkeleiae: Ten Speed Press, 2002) pp. 160-167
  • "Food" in P. T. Srinivasa Iyengar, Pre-Aryan Tamil Culture (Maderaspatani: University of Madras, 1930) pp. 57-65
  • Colleen Taylor Sen, Curry: A Global History. Londinii: Reaktion Books, 2009. ISBN 978-1-86189-704-6
Praecepta
  • 1747 : Hannah Glasse, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (Londinii, 1747) p. 52 ("To make a currey the India way"); recensio 1758 p. 101 (vide imaginem)
  • 1806 : Maria Rundell, A new system of domestic cookery. Londinii: John Murray (editionis Bostoniensis 1807 p. 7 "curry of lobsters or prawns"; p. 13 "curry of cod"; p. 81 "chicken curry")
  • 1822 : "Chicken currie", "curries", "currie balls", "currie of cod", "currie of lobsters", "currie powder", "currie sauce", "currie soup" in Mary Eaton, The cook and housekeeper's complete and universal dictionary (Bungay, 1822) pp. 77-78 101-102
  • 1827 : William Kitchiner, The Cook's Oracle (Nova ed. Londinii: Bagster, 1827) no. 97 et alibi ("Curries")
  • 1831 : Sandford Arnot, interpr., "Indian Cookery, as practised and described by the natives of the East" in Miscellaneous Translations from Oriental Languages vol. 1 (Londinii) fasc. 5 pp. 20-21 ("Vegetable curries")
  • 1833 : M. A. Carême, L'Art de la cuisine française au dix-neuviême siècle vol. 1 pp. 283-288 ("Des potages indiens: Potage de karic ...")
  • 1845 : "Curries ..." in Eliza Acton, Modern cookery in all its branches (Londinii: Longmans) pp. 343-353
  • 1852 : "Curries" in Robert F. Riddell, Indian domestic economy and receipt book (3a ed. Bombayae: Bombay Gazette Press) pp. 380-406
  • 1869 : "Curries" in The Indian Cookery Book: a practical handbook to the kitchen in India (Calcuttae: Wyman) pp. 14-34
  • 1888 : "Curries" in Dainty Dishes for Indian Tables (2a ed. Calcuttae: Newman, 1888) pp. 151-157
  • 1891 : Grace Johnson, Anglo-Indian And Oriental Cookery. Londinii: Allen Textus
  • 1894 : Spons' Household Manual: a treasury of domestic receipts and guide for home management (Londinii: Spon) pp. 497-502 ("Chicken curry; Curries; Dhall curry; Malay chicken (Doopiazeh curry); Quoormah (Persian curry)")
  • 1900 : P. O. P., The Nabob's Cookery Book: a manual of East and West Indian recipes (Londinii: Warne) no. 1-24
  • 1906 : "Indian Cookery" in Charles Herman Senn, ed., Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management (Londinii: Ward, Lock, 1906) pp. 1599-1613
  • 1911 : Robert H. Christie, Banquets of the Nations: eighty-six dinners characteristic and typical each of its own country (Edinburgi: Gray) pp. 9, 13, 428-429 ("South Africa: Kerrie soep; Kwartel kerrie en patatas; Java: Kerrie oedang, Kerrie dagan dan ikan")
  • 1975 : Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz, Caribbean Cooking (Londinii: Deutsch, 1975) pp. 6-7, 76-77 et passim
  • 1999 : Pat Chapman's Curry Bible. Londinii: Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN 0-340-68037-7
Aliae encyclopaediae
  • "Curry" in Alan Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food (Oxonii: Oxford University Press, 1999. ISBN 0-19-211579-0) pp. 235-236; Tom Jaine, ed., 2a ed. 2006; 3a ed. 2014
  • William Woys Weaver, "Curry" in Solomon H. Katz, ed., Encyclopedia of Food and Culture (Novi Eboraci: Scribner, 2003) vol. 1 pp. 484-485

Nexus interni

Nexus externi

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Receptum de "https://la.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Caril&oldid=3838906"