Milagu-tanni

Milagu-tanni (ita Tamulice: litteris indigenis மிளகு தண்ணி),^[1] lingua Anglica Indorum saepius mulagatanni,^[2] est categoria sorbitionum aromaticarum in gastronomia Coromandelica et Srilankensi. Brodium huius ferculi imitator, orthographia mulligatawny,^[3] saeculo XIX ineunte in arte coquinaria Britannica receptum est.

Primus fortasse Anglorum, qui de hoc ferculo cantitaverint, fuit miles classiarius captivitatem Bengalurensem anno 1784 his verbis lamentans:

In vain our hard fate we repine;

In vain on our fortune we rail;

On mullaghee-tanny we dine,

Or congee, in Bangalore Jail

("vano malum casum maeremus nostraque fortuna clamamus: milagu-tanni tisanaeque Bengaluri inclusi cenamus"). ^[4] Deliciae ita a captivo nolente sumptae multo laetius a missionario Anglo in eadem regione anno fere 1820 acceptae sunt, hospite indigena cenam nocturnam offerente quam constituerunt "magna oryzae elixatae copia in patina aenea, duae cariles foliis singulis inlatae, alium folium in formam cyathi consertum cui butyrum solutum immissum est, atque in hirnula aenea mulugu tanni vel sorbitio calida ex holeribus cum pipere et capsicis confecta", quae res omnes e foliis Fici benghalensis consertis in similitudinem patellae comedendae erant.^[5]

Ars coquinaria Civitatum Foederatarum: *Mulligatawny* Cleveland in urbe inlatum

Mox magistratus colonique Britanni, qui Indiam sibi vindicabant, milagu-tanni in suam artem coquinariam acceperunt. Horum primus fortasse, qui praeceptum divulgaverit, Robertus Riddell duas recensiones praebuit, unam nomine Tamulico Anglice verbatim converso Pepper water sour, altero nomine mutuato Mullagatawney soup.^[6] Hoc nomine, non illo, ferculum classicum in gastronomia Anglo-Indica acceptum est. Dionysius Kincaid rerum socialium commemorator "prandium diei dominico" ait "semper a sorbitione mulligatawny incipiebat: hic immutabilis erat ritus omnium familiarum Anglo-Indicarum annos iam sexaginta obsecutus".^[7]

Optimates illi, qui in insulis Britannicis manserant, interea saporem sorbitionis malakatanni sicut iam diu brodii^(en) testudinum epulis publicis cognoscere discebant, si anonymus chirurgus modestus de archiepiscopo Dublinensi res veras susurravit.^[8] Erant autem qui calefacientem huius ferculi facultatem deprecabant eodem modo quo "carilum siccorum, biscoctorum aromatizatorum, allecis, pepper-pot ... liquaminis Vigorniensis, gingiberis conditi, salsamentorum calidorum, vini Xerae ardentis, spiritus vini Cognacensis meri".^[9]

Ad sorbitionem stilo Anglo-Indico expeditius temperandam tritura liquida nomine mulligatawny-paste, medio saeculo XIX in Britannia venditata,^[10]^[11] ab iter facientibus adhibita est; inter quos explorator David Livingstone anno 1859 usum et effectum huius triturae descripsit, quam ad sorbitionis confecturam, ne tempus aliorum ciborum parandorum caruerit, adduxerat. Servus autem Africanus, qui coquus exploratoribus merebat, neque usum elixirum Britannicorum nec naturam holerum Americanorum bene sciebat: loco duorum coclearium triturae, "lagoenam omnem effudit. Sorbitioni ergo calidiori oryzam elixatam addidimus fameque magna pulsi generosius comedimus". Aut huius ferculi aut Jatrophae curcae venenosae comesu aliquot dies aegrotaverunt.^[12]

Notae

↑ Ad pedem litterarum "aqua piperata". De nomine Tamulico vide hic sive hic
↑ De orthographia Anglo-Indica vide hic sive hic
↑ Saepius "mulligatawny soup": OED
↑ "Thursday June 3rd 1784: A Song by a Gentleman of the Navy when a Prisoner in the Bangalore Jail" in W. S. Seton-Karr, ed., Selections from Calcutta Gazettes vol. 1 (1864) p. 18
↑ He had already begged me to allow him to prepare supper for me. About nine o'clock it appeared. There was a large quantity of boiled rice, in a brasen dish; two kinds of curries, on separate leaves; in another leaf, stitched into the form of a cup, was ghee, or clarified butter; and in a brasen pot was mulugu tanni, a hot vegetable soup, made chiefly from pepper and capsicums. A number of leaves (I think, of the banyan-tree) stitched together, formed a plate such as the natives of all classes eat from, never using the same more than once: Elijah Hoole, Madras, Mysore, and the south of India (2a ed. Londinii, 1844) p. 249
↑ Riddell (1852)
↑ Lunch on Sundays always began with mulligatawny soup. In every Anglo-Indian household this was an unalterable rite, a rite that has continued to be observed for over sixty years: Dennis Kincaid, British social life in India, 1608-1937 (Londinii: Methuen, 1938) p. 223
↑ A lord chancellor ... may not be the most profound judge of the washing of blankets, nor the palate of an archbishop, accustomed to the complex savour of turtle and malakatanni, be capable of deciding on the merits of the simpler juices of beeves' heads: "Sketches of the surgical profession in Ireland, 10: Ste[e]vens' Hospital" in The Lancet vol. 10 (6 May 1826) p. 177
↑ ... nothing but dry curries, devilled biscuits, anchovy paste, pepper-pot, mulligatawny soup, Worcestershire sauce, preserved ginger, hot pickles, fiery sherry, and neat cognac ...: "Food and Feeding" in Grant Allen, Falling in Love (1889) p. 205
↑ "Mulligatawny-paste, a curry paste, used for flavouring mulligatawny-soup": P. L. Simmonds, Dictionary of Trade Products (1858)
↑ "I detected the presence of Barrie’s excellent mulligatunny paste at several places at home [i.e. in Anglia], especially at Mutton’s at Brighton, where a basin of the potage Indien for lunch on a frosty day used to be a thing worth recording in a pilgrim’s diary with red letters": Kenney-Herbert (1883) p. 288
↑ We had taken a little mulligatawney paste, for making soup, in case of want of time to cook other food. Late one afternoon ... the cook was directed to use a couple of spoonfuls of the paste; but, instead of doing so, he put in the whole potful. The soup tasted rather hot, but we added boiled rice to it, and, being very hungry, partook freely of it; and, in consequence of the overdose, we were delayed several days in severe suffering. Our illness may partly have arisen from another cause. One kind of cassava (Jatropha maligna) is known to be, in its raw state, poisonous ...: David Livingstone, Charles Livingstone, Narrative of an expedition to the Zambesi and its tributaries and of the discovery of the Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa (Londinii: Murray, 1865) p. 130, cf. Roy (2010)

Bibliographia

Praeceptum Mulligatawny ab auctore anonymo in symbolis All the Year Round editum (Dickens, ed. (1868))

Lexicographica

"mulligatawny" in H. Yule, A. C. Burnell; Gulielmus Crooke, ed., Hobson-Jobson. 2a ed. (Londinii: Murray, 1903) ~ ~
"mulligatawny" in The Oxford English Dictionary (Oxonii: Clarendon Press, 1989. 20 voll.)

Eruditio

"Anglo-Indian Cookery: Mulligatawny soup" in Alan Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food (Oxonii: Oxford University Press, 1999. ISBN 0-19-211579-0) p. 20
Modhumita Roy, "Some Like It Hot: Class, Gender and Empire in the Making of Mulligatawny Soup]" in Economic and Political Weekly vol. 45 no. 32 (7/13 Augusti 2010) pp. 66-75 JSTOR

Praecepta

1817 : William Kitchiner, Apicius Redivivus, or The Cook's Oracle (Londinii: Bagster, 1817) no. 249 ("Malaga tawney soup"); 4a ed. pp. 291-292 ("Curry, or mullaga-tawny soup")
1826 : Margaret Dods [i.e. Christian Isobel Johnstone], The Cook and Housewife's Manual (Edinburgi) pp. 83-85 ("Mullagatawny soup or Indian pepper liquor")
1845 : Eliza Acton, Modern cookery in all its branches (Londinii: Longmans) pp. 42-47 ("Mullagatawny soup ... Vegetable mullagatawny")
1852 : Robert F. Riddell, Indian domestic economy and receipt book (3a ed. Bombayae: Bombay Gazette Press) pp. 67-68, 406-407 ("Mullagatawney soup, Pepper water sour")
1861 : Isabella Beeton, Beeton's Book of Household Management (Londinii, 1861) pp. 90-91 ("Mullagatawny soup")
1868 : "Leaves from the Mahogany Tree: A Basin of Soup" in Charles Dickens, ed., All the Year Round vol. 20 (1868) p. 249 ("Mulligatawny")
1869 : The Indian Cookery Book: a practical handbook to the kitchen in India (Calcuttae: Wyman) p. 27, 35-36 ("Madras mulligatawny curry, Mulligatawny soup")
1883 : A. R. Kenney-Herbert, Culinary Jottings for Madras ... by "Wyvern" (4a ed. Maderaspatani: Higginbotham, 1883) pp. 306-313 5a ed., 1885, pp. 306-313 ("Mulligatunny")
1888 : Dainty Dishes for Indian Tables (2a ed. Calcuttae: Newman, 1888) pp. 32-33 ("Mulligatawny soup, Pea fowl mulligatawny soup")
1893 : Flora Annie Steel, Grace Gardiner, The complete Indian housekeeper and cook (3a ed. Edinburgi: Edinburgh Press, 1893) p. 269 ("Mulligatawny soup")
1894 : Spons' Household Manual: a treasury of domestic receipts and guide for home management (Londinii: Spon) p. 500 ("Malagatani soup")
1900 : P. O. P., The Nabob's Cookery Book: a manual of East and West Indian recipes (Londinii: Warne) no. 1, 2, 5 ("Mulligatawny, Mulligatawny soup, Vegetable mulligatawny")
1903 : Adolphe Meyer, The post-graduate cookery book (Novi Eboraci: Caterer, 1903) pp. 30-31 ("Potage mulligatawny de volailles [etc.]")
1903 : Ketab, Indian dishes for English tables (Londinii: Chapman & Hall, 1903) pp. 30-31
1909 : Eleanor Jenkinson, The Ocklye Cookery Book: a book of recipes by a lady and her cook. Crowborough: H. Wilkins, 1909 p. 10 ("Mulligatawny soup")
1911 : Robert H. Christie, Banquets of the Nations: eighty-six dinners characteristic and typical each of its own country (Edinburgi: Gray) pp. 287-288 ("Ceylon: Mulligatani")
1914 : May Byron, Pot-luck, or The British home cookery book. Londinii: Hodder & Stoughton 2a ed., 1915, p. 65 ("no. 150 Mulligatawny soup [Hertfordshire]; no. 151 Mulligatawny [Kent, 1809]")
1988 : Alaska Magazine's Cabin Cookbook: over 150 favorite North Country recipes that tell how to cook with wild game, fish, fowl, and native plants (Anchorage, 1988. ISBN 0 89909 186 5) p. 59 exemplar mutuabile ("Mulligatawny soup")

Nexus externi

"Mulligatawny Soup" apud The Foods of England Project

[1] Ad pedem litterarum "aqua piperata". De nomine Tamulico vide hic sive hic

[2] De orthographia Anglo-Indica vide hic sive hic

[3] Saepius "mulligatawny soup": OED

[4] "Thursday June 3rd 1784: A Song by a Gentleman of the Navy when a Prisoner in the Bangalore Jail" in W. S. Seton-Karr, ed., Selections from Calcutta Gazettes vol. 1 (1864) p. 18

[5] He had already begged me to allow him to prepare supper for me. About nine o'clock it appeared. There was a large quantity of boiled rice, in a brasen dish; two kinds of curries, on separate leaves; in another leaf, stitched into the form of a cup, was ghee, or clarified butter; and in a brasen pot was mulugu tanni, a hot vegetable soup, made chiefly from pepper and capsicums. A number of leaves (I think, of the banyan-tree) stitched together, formed a plate such as the natives of all classes eat from, never using the same more than once: Elijah Hoole, Madras, Mysore, and the south of India (2a ed. Londinii, 1844) p. 249

[6] Riddell (1852)

[7] Lunch on Sundays always began with mulligatawny soup. In every Anglo-Indian household this was an unalterable rite, a rite that has continued to be observed for over sixty years: Dennis Kincaid, British social life in India, 1608-1937 (Londinii: Methuen, 1938) p. 223

[8] A lord chancellor ... may not be the most profound judge of the washing of blankets, nor the palate of an archbishop, accustomed to the complex savour of turtle and malakatanni, be capable of deciding on the merits of the simpler juices of beeves' heads: "Sketches of the surgical profession in Ireland, 10: Ste[e]vens' Hospital" in The Lancet vol. 10 (6 May 1826) p. 177

[9] ... nothing but dry curries, devilled biscuits, anchovy paste, pepper-pot, mulligatawny soup, Worcestershire sauce, preserved ginger, hot pickles, fiery sherry, and neat cognac ...: "Food and Feeding" in Grant Allen, Falling in Love (1889) p. 205

[10] "Mulligatawny-paste, a curry paste, used for flavouring mulligatawny-soup": P. L. Simmonds, Dictionary of Trade Products (1858)

[11] "I detected the presence of Barrie’s excellent mulligatunny paste at several places at home [i.e. in Anglia], especially at Mutton’s at Brighton, where a basin of the potage Indien for lunch on a frosty day used to be a thing worth recording in a pilgrim’s diary with red letters": Kenney-Herbert (1883) p. 288

[12] We had taken a little mulligatawney paste, for making soup, in case of want of time to cook other food. Late one afternoon ... the cook was directed to use a couple of spoonfuls of the paste; but, instead of doing so, he put in the whole potful. The soup tasted rather hot, but we added boiled rice to it, and, being very hungry, partook freely of it; and, in consequence of the overdose, we were delayed several days in severe suffering. Our illness may partly have arisen from another cause. One kind of cassava (Jatropha maligna) is known to be, in its raw state, poisonous ...: David Livingstone, Charles Livingstone, Narrative of an expedition to the Zambesi and its tributaries and of the discovery of the Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa (Londinii: Murray, 1865) p. 130, cf. Roy (2010)

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